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Whenever curating a ranking of London’s top eateries, one might anticipate familiar award-winning names. However, tucked near the top among these gastronomic heavyweights is a unpretentious salonu situated in a distant part of northern London.

A Unexpected Honour

The little Turkish restaurant, specialising in the street food of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s south coast, has been declared the fourth finest restaurant in the capital by a respected food magazine. The recognition has left the family totally astonished.

“I am completely surprised,” remarks a proprietor, alluding to his family’s hard graft that led to their humble restaurant achieving such a lofty position on a notable 99-strong list.

The Appeal of Simplicity

The little venue, which started as a simple cafe before its conversion into a buzzing food hotspot, has maintained much of its original charm. It fits just over 20 people and, aside from the impressive live cooking display, the interior remains mostly unchanged. “It is a compact and cozy spot,” notes the owner.

A Star Dish: Tantuni

However, it’s all about the cuisine, and this eatery definitely delivers. The restaurant’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a simple joy. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to keep a succulent texture.

It is then tossed into a sizeable pan with seasonings and oil, which are mixed in bit by bit. When the savoury mixture starts to simmer, freshly made lavaş—a soft bread—is slapped on top to absorb all the aromas. Thinly sliced onions and a dash of parsley are added before the flavourful meat is rolled neatly inside.

The wrap is often eaten with a drizzle of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a strong punch of flavour, with gentle hints of sumac, punchy onions and rich, paprika-red oil tying it all together.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. A prominent food critic labelled this dish “a part of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

When it comes to a sweet finish, the restaurant’s künefe is a delight. It is soaked in lighter syrup than found elsewhere, giving it a more intense, more aromatic and more balanced flavour.

Rising Above the Giants

Remarkably, this modest restaurant has been placed higher than several celebrated three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself near the top of the list, following other notable dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave the restaurant full for below £25, comparable meals at top-tier establishments can run into many times that price.

The Ethos of Warmth

The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants listed and is located well outside the city’s most expensive zones. “It’s not about luxury. London is an expensive city. It is belief that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and finest food but I don’t believe in that,” says the owner.

“I feel what is crucial is friendliness, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

The philosophy is supported by the list’s editor, who stated that if he was in a position of power, he would “require to have every chef in London train at this restaurant as a masterclass, to teach them the traps of overthinking, and to demonstrate what is possible if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their absolute best”.

A Path of Hard Work

In contrast to most chefs running kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the driving force behind the food did not train at elite restaurants. “I am very pleased of our restaurant and our mum,” says her son.

Many restaurants require years to find their footing, but this one first launched seven years ago. Its popularity is thanks to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of effort.

“Our mum was really tired. She would source produce in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Everything is handmade; she would handle all of this. She is a single mum and she had a life outside work but her friends would come here to encourage her. She had children and a house to look after as well. Each of these roles shaped her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he reflects.

A Achievement for the People

This restaurant’s recognition is bound to have meaning outside its own premises. “I think many people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” notes the owner, highlighting the broader meaning of this gastronomic achievement.